Additional Information
Contents |
Additional Information
Introduction | Isle of Mull | Isle of Iona | Coll | Isle of Islay | Isle of Jura | Additional Information
Things to do in the Inner Hebrides
o Take a boat trip to the spectacular island of Staffa and the cathedral-like Fingal's cave, which inspired Mendelssohn.
o Hire a bike and explore the island of Iona, especially the very wonderful Bay at the Back of the Ocean.
o Take a walk on the wild side on the remote and windswept island of Jura.
o If you're a golfer, tee off at Machrie, a memorable golfing experience.
o If you're into windsurfing, head for the island of Tiree for the ultimate challenge.
Things to do on Mull when it's wet
It rains a lot on Mull, but luckily there's a fairly large number of indoor options to keep you nice and dry until the weather changes. If you've just arrived off the ferry from Oban and it's chucking it down, then head straight for Torosay Castle, just to the south of Craignure. And if the weather changes whilst exploring the interior, don't miss the gardens.
Just beyond the castle is Wings Over Mull, a bird of prey cpnservation centre which offers indoor hawk-handling and a chance to learn about the island's incredible bird life. Nearby is Mull's greatest fortification, Duart Castle, which is also worth a peek. If all that history gets too much then you could do worse than hole up in the bar of the Craignure Inn and relax in front of their roaring log fire.
In the north of the island, the most appealing option by far is the Old Byre Heritage Centre, not far from the picturesque village of Dervaig. When in Tobermory do as the locals do, and get yourself down to the bar of the Mish, though you shouldn't really need the excuse of inclement weather. Meanwhile, over in Fionnphort, the departure point for the pilgrimage to Iona, you can seek spiritual assistance with a wee dram in the cosy Keel row bar.
Shiver me timbers!!
The history of 16th-century Europe is littered with the remains of carefully forged and hastily broken political alliances between the various superpowers. One such deal between England and Spain was broken in 1588, prompting Philip II of Spain to send the Spanish Armada, a massive force of 130 ships, to take on the English navy. Originating in Cadiz, the Spanish force moved north and left Lisbon on 20 May. They met Queen Elizabeth's ships in the English Channel, where they were duly routed.
A number of Spanish ships fled up the east coast, chased by the British fleet as far as the Firth of Forth. Denied entry into the estuary by further British naval forces, the tattered remnants of these great Spanish galleons were no longer considered to pose a threat and were left to their own fate. Many continued up the east coast of Scotland, only to be wrecked in the perilous North Sea. Not all the crews drowned, however, and several integrated into local communites, where their descendants still live to this day. Most of their offspring were distinctively black haired and there is strong facial resemblance even today between some on the northeast coast of Scotland and the residents of Cadiz, from where the Armada originally sailed.
Some Spanish ships headed for the west coast, but were lost in a violent storm in the Hebrides. One galleon, the Florida, was lost in Tobermory harbour, reputedly carrying £300,000 worth of gold bullion. However, during recent dives all that was found on the seabed were rotted timbers, a sailor's bangle and a silver spoon.
The Story of St Columba
St Columba (Colum Cille in Gaelic), a prince of Ireland and grandson of the Irish King, Niall of the Nine Hostages, came to Scotland not as a missionary, but as an act of self-imposed penance for his actions. He stubbornly refused to hand over his copy of the Gospels, illegally copied from St Finian's original, which led to a bitter dispute with the king. This ended in a pitched battle in which Columba's supporters prevailed, but he was so overcome with remorse at the bloodshed he had caused that he fled Ireland, finally settling on Iona as it was the first place he found from where he couldn't see his homeland.
Columba, however, was not retiring into obscurity. His missionary zeal drove him to begin work on building the abbey. He also banished women and cows from the island, declaring that "where there is a cow there is a woman, and where there is a woman there is mischief". Workers at the abbey had to leave their womenfolk on nearby Eilean nam Ban (Women's Island). Not content with that, he also banished frogs and snakes from Iona, though there are plenty on Mull. He is even said to have pacified the Loch Ness Monster during a visit to Inverness. He went on to found the Celtic Church, or the Church of the Culdees, with centres throughout Scotland, which differed in many ways from the Church of Rome.
The Whisky Trail
Though the whisky distilling process is basically the same everywhere, some distilleries have more beautiful locations and more interesting tours. Islay's seven distilleries enjoy the most scenically stunning settings and are full of character and history. Islay also offers the unique opportunity to visit several of Scotland's most impressive distilleries in one day, and their distinctive peaty malts are considered to be among the finest.Laphroaig (pronounced 'la-froyg') is the closest to Port Ellen, and its wonderful setting is summed up by its name, meaning "The beautiful hollow by the broad bay" in Gaelic. According to many this is the ultimate in malt whisky and is at its best after dinner. The free distillery tours are by appointment only, Tel. 302418. Lagavulin (pronounced 'laga-voolin') is a mile along the shore by the romantic ruin of Dunyveg Castle. Their 16-year-old single malt is one of the classics and also makes the ideal after-dinner tipple. They also offer a very interesting tour (£3), Monday-Friday by appointment only, Tel. 302400.
Ardbeg distillery is a mile further east and produces a robust and powerful single malt. Established in 1815, it was closed for a while, but was recently acquired by Glenmorangie and runs tours (£2) Monday-Friday from 1030 till 1530, and also on Saturday and Sunday June-August, Tel. 302244.
Bowmore is the oldest distillery on Islay and still uses all the old traditional methods to produce its fine single malt, also at its best after dinner. Their hour-long tours are the most professionally done and even include a video. Tours (£2) all year round from Monday-Friday at 1030 and 1400, in the summer months at 1030, 1130, 1400 and 1500, Tel. 810441.
Caol Ila (pronounced 'coal-eela') was founded in 1846 and lies close to Port Askaig, with great views across the Sound of Islay to Jura. Unlike most of its island peers, this single malt is best before dinner. Tours of the distillery (£3) all year round by appointment only, T840207.
Bunnahabhain (pronounced 'bun a havan') is the most northerly of the distilleries, set in a secluded bay with great views across to Jura. Free tours are also by appointment only, Tel. 840646.
Bruichladdich (pronounced 'brook-laddie') is in the village of the same name on the road south to Port Charlotte. Recently voted distillery of the year by the readers of America's Malt Advocate. They offer tours (£3) all year round Mon-Sat at 1030, 1130 and 1430, Bruichladdich