Melrose
Contents |
Melrose
Introduction | Travelling| Peebles | Biggar | Tweed Valley | Melrose | Selkirk | Jedburgh | Hawick | Kelso | Coldstream | Duns | Eyemouth | St Abbs Head | Berwick upon Tweed
===Introduction to Melrose=== code: +44 (0)1896 Population: 2,300
Nestled at the foot of the mystical Eildon Hills, by the banks of the Tweed, is little Melrose, the loveliest of all the Border towns. It's an engaging mix of cute little shops and cottages and dignified Georgian and Victorian houses, and boasts one of the most famous ruins in Scotland. The normally soporific atmosphere is shattered every April during the week-long Melrose Sevens, when the town is taken over by rugby fans from all over the world for the acclaimed seven-a-side rugby tournament which has been going since 1883.
Melrose makes a great base for exploring the beautiful landscapes of the middle stretch of the Tweed which so inspired Sir Walter Scott, the famous son of the Borders. Two of the area's main sights, Dryburgh Abbey and Abbotsford House, are inextricably linked with the writer's life and work. They can be reached by public transport, but you'll need your own transport if you want to get off the beaten track.
Ins and outs
There are regular buses to Galashiels (15 mins), Kelso (several daily; 35 mins), Jedburgh (30 mins), Peebles (several daily; 1 hr 10 mins), and Selkirk (hourly Mon-Sat, less frequently on Sun; 40 mins). To get to Hawick, it's easier to catch a bus to Galashiels and then change. Buses to Melrose stop in Market Square, close to the abbey and tourist office. The Tourist Information Centre is next to the abbey ruins in Abbey St, Tel 822555. Apr-May Mon-Sat 1100-1600, Sun 1000-1300; Jun Mon-Sat 1000-1730, Sun 1000-1300; Jul and Aug Mon-Sat 0900-1830, Sun 1000-1700; Sep Mon-Sat 1000-1730, Sun 1000-1300; Oct Mon-Sat 1000-1600, Sun 1000-1300. Hours may vary. Those who wish to explore the area by bike can hire cycles in Galashiels, at Gala Cycles, Tel 757587, at 58 High St.
Sights
The bitter wars that ravaged the Scottish borders for centuries did irrevocable damage to Melrose Abbey, but even in ruins it remains toweringly beautiful and impressive. It was founded in 1136 by the prolific David I (who helped to found all four of the great Border Abbeys) and was the first Cistercian monastery in Scotland. It was attacked in 1322 by Edward II, but soon restored thanks to the financial assistance of Robert the Bruce. In 1385 it was largely destroyed by Richard II of England, then completely rebuilt, only to be ravaged again, this time by Henry VIII, in the mid-16th century. The abbey as it stands today dates from the 14th and 15th centuries, and was preserved by the money of the Duke of Buccleuch and the energy and talent of Sir Walter Scott. His great narrative poem The Lay of the Last Minstrel painted an eloquent picture of the abbey and helped him on the road to fame.
Melrose & around
The red sandstone ruins show an elaborate Gothic style and some of the finest figure sculpture in Scotland. Of particular note are the humorous gargoyles, which include a pig playing the bagpipes on the roof of the south side of the nave. The abbey's real claim to fame is that the heart of Robert the Bruce was buried here, at his request, after it had been taken to the Holy Land to help in the Crusades. The lead casket believed to contain the heart was finally excavated in 1996 and now takes pride of place in the abbey museum, in the Commendator's House, next to the church. Info: Apr-Sep daily 0930-1830; Oct-Mar Mon-Sat 0930-1630, Sun 1400-1630. £3.30, £2.50 concession. Tel 822562 (HS). Next to the abbey is Priorwood Garden, where plants are grown specifically for dried flower arrangements. There's also a dried flower shop on site. Info: Apr-Sep Mon-Sat 1000-1730, Sun 1330-1730; Oct-Dec Mon-Sat 1000-1600, Sun 1330-1600. Tel 822493 (NTS). On Market Square is the Trimontium Exhibition, a small but interesting centre which tells the story of the Roman occupation of the area and includes some archaeological finds. Info: Apr-Oct daily 1030-1630, Sat, Sun closed 1300-1400. £1.50, £1 concession. Tel 822651. The more adventurous can follow the Trimontium Walk, a four-mile guided tour of Roman sites in the area, including the site of the Trimontium (Three Hills) fort at Newstead. Info: Apr-Oct Thu 1330-1700. Tel 822651.
Walks around Melrose
The three peaks of the Eildon Hills can be seen from all parts of the Central Borders region and can be climbed quite easily from Melrose. Starting from Market Square, head along the B6359 to Lilliesleaf, and after 100-yd the path is signed to the left and leads to the saddle between the North and Mid hills (Mid Hill is the highest, at 1,385 ft). The path leads to the summit of North Hill, then Mid Hill, and finally West Hill, to the south. There are several routes back to town, but heading via the golf course makes a nice circular walk of two miles. Allow about 1€ hours. The route is detailed in the Eildon Hills Walk leaflet available from the tourist office. Melrose is the starting point for the St Cuthbert's Way, a 60-mile walk which finishes at Lindisfarne (the Holy Isle). The much longer Southern Upland Way also passes through the town.
Sleeping
There's not a huge amount of accommodation in Melrose, considering its appeal, so it's best to book in advance during the summer and especially during the Melrose Sevens in mid-Apr. The best hotel is Burts Hotel, on Market Sq, Tel 822285, Burts Hotel. This refurbished traditional 18th-century inn is very comfortable, and renowned locally for its excellent modern Scottish cuisine (lunch mid-range; dinner expensive). Also on the square is the small, comfortable Millars Hotel, Tel 822645. Pick of the B&Bs and guesthouses is the excellent Dunfermline House Guest House, on Buccleuch St, Tel 822148, The Dunmel. Best of the rest are Braidwood , also on Buccleuch St, Tel 822488; Little Fordel, Tel 822206, on Abbey St; and Collingwood, on Waverley Rd, Tel 822670, open Apr-Oct, on the outskirts of town. No smoking. There's a very good and very popular Youth Hostel, in a large mansion on the edge of town, overlooking the abbey from beside the A6091 bypass, Tel 822521, open all year. There's also a campsite at Gibson Park, Tel 822969, at the end of the High St opposite the Greenyards rugby ground.
Eating
Finding a good place to eat isn't too difficult. Best of all is Burt's Hotel (see above), where you can dine in style in the dining room or opt for their excellent pub grub. Another hotel recommended for food is the moderately priced King's Arms, on the High St, Tel 822143. On the other side of the river, in the village of Gattonside, is the Hoebridge Inn Restaurant , Tel 823082, which offers good quality Scottish fare at mid-range prices and is well worth the walk. A good French-style bistro is Marmions Brasserie, Tel 822245, on Buccleuch St near the abbey (daily 0900-1800, 1830-2200). Mid-range price
Abbotsford House
One of the Borders' top tourist attractions is Abbotsford House, home of Sir Walter Scott from 1812 to 1832 and a Mecca for the great novelist's many admirers. For an account of his life. Scott spent a small fortune transforming the original farmhouse into a huge country mansion befitting a man of his status and, though Abbotsford may not be to everyone's taste, the house is an intriguing mix of styles and enjoys a beautiful setting. The house is still lived in by Scott's descendants, and the library and study have been preserved much as they were when he lived here, including the collection of over 9,000 antiquarian books. There's also an amazing assortment of Scottish memorabilia, including Rob Roy's purse, Bonnie Prince Charlie's drinking cup and Flora MacDonald's pocketbook. The house is well worth visiting and sits in pleasant grounds, about three miles west of Melrose between the Tweed and the B6360. Take the Melrose-Galashiels bus and get off at the Tweedbank traffic island. From there it's a 15-minute walk. Info: Mid-Mar to May and Oct Mon-Sat 0930-1700, Sun 1400-1700; Jun-Sep daily 0930-1700. £4, £2 child. Tel 750043.
Dryburgh Abbey
Five miles southeast of Melrose on the B6404, near the village of St Boswells, is Dryburgh Abbey. Its setting amongst ancient cedars on the banks of the Tweed, also make it the most beautifully idyllic, romantic and evocative of the Border abbeys. It dates from around 1150, when it was founded by Hugh de Morville for Premonstratensian monks from Alnwick in Northumberland. The 12th- and 13th-century ruin is remarkably well-preserved and complete, and was chosen as the burial place for Sir Walter Scott. His final resting place is in the north transept of the church. Close by lies Field Marshal Earl Haig, the disastrous First World War commander. Info: Apr-Sep 0930-1830; Oct-Mar Mon-Sat 0930-1630, Sun 1400-1630. £2.80, £2 concession. Tel 01835-822381. If you're travelling by public transport from Melrose, take the Jedburgh bus as far as St Boswells (10 minutes), then walk north from the village for about a mile. If you're driving, make sure you pass Scott's View, on the B6356, which offers a sweeping view of the Eildon Hills and Tweed valley. Scott came here many times to enjoy the view (hence its name) and to seek inspiration. There's an even better view from the hill on the other side of the road. In the abbey grounds is the B-C Dryburgh Abbey Hotel (Tel 01835-822261, Dryburgh.
Thirslestane Castle
North of Melrose on the main A68 is the stolid market town of Lauder, which merits inclusion because of Thirlestane Castle, one of Scotland's oldest and finest castles, which stands on the eastern edge of town. The castellated baronial house is the seat of the Earls of Lauderdale and has been owned by the Maitland family since the 16th century. Inside, the 17th-century plaster ceilings are particularly notable. Info: End Mar-end Oct daily (except Sat) 1030-1700 - last admission 1615. Tel 01578-722430.
The Legends of the Eildons
The three-peaked Eildon Hills were considered a sacred place by the ancient Celts and have long been shrouded in mystery and associated with a number of legends. For a start they are believed to have been created by the wizard/alchemist Michael Scott and it was here that the mystic Thomas the Rhymer was given the gift of prophecy by the Faerie Queen. Most startling of all though is the claim that King Arthur and his knights lie asleep beneath the hills, victims of a terrible spell.